The Savvy Sabbatical Guide to the Balkans
If you’re looking for a region perfect for sabbatical travels, make a beeline for the Balkans! This cluster of countries in the southeast of Europe is one of the world’s biggest hidden gems, full of culture, history, and beautiful cities. Plus, much of it is very budget friendly! This is an incomplete guide to just some of the places you might include on a Balkan itinerary for your sabbatical.
Ljubljana, Slovenia
What to do
Ljubljana has a beautiful, pedestrian-only city center crowned by a medieval castle. A ticket to Ljubljanski Grad includes a round-trip funicular rail ride and entry to two of the castle’s exhibits, which could include rotating art shows, the castle’s viewing tower, the Museum of Slovenian History, or the unique Museum of Puppetry.
Foodies had best time their trips for summer when every Friday the town square erupts into the Open Kitchen, a market peopled by restaurants from all over the country. Taste Ljubljana also runs daily food, wine, and craft beer tours. Outdoorsy types might prefer to take a day trip to Lake Bled or Lake Bohinj.
Travelers looking to get off the beaten path, especially for a wild night out, can walk just 15 minutes away from the center to Metelkova Mesto. These former army barracks are now an independent commune, where artists have decked every corner with unique murals and sculptures, and social activists advocate for people with disabilities, the LGBT community, women, immigrants, and many other minority groups.
How to get here
International flights arrive at Ljubljana Joze Pucnik Airport. There is a bus line that runs from the airport terminal to the main bus station in under an hour for about 4 euro. For a little extra you can get a shuttle directly to your hotel.
Trains and buses leave from the same station, within walking distance of the city center. There are plenty of connections to other Balkan cities like Zagreb and Mostar. Venice is very close by.
How much to spend
Backpackers can get by with 40 euro a night for a hostel dorm at the height of August, and many hostels are in the city center. Prices drop below 30 euro by October.
Your cheapest dining option will be a burek, a savory Balkan pastry filled with meat or cheese, just a few euro apiece. A meal at one of the many cafes along the river runs perhaps 10 euro. A fancier indoor establishment will cost at least 30 euro.
A ticket to Ljubljana Castle is 19 euro, including a round-trip funicular ride. Guided tours of the city center, which can focus on history, food, or wine, run about 50 euro.
When to visit
If you plan on visiting other parts of Europe beyond the Balkans, make Ljubljana your bridge between the two legs of your travels. As part of the EU and the Schengen Area, Slovenia enjoys smoother border crossings with Italy and Austria, just as a couple examples. Visiting the Balkans at the end of your trip? Make Ljubljana your first destination. Moving on from the Balkans to the West? Finish in Slovenia instead.
How long to stay
Ljubljana is an excellent place to slow down and enjoy the city’s energy. But if you prefer a tighter schedule, you can easily fit its main sights into a long weekend. At the very least, give yourself a full day to explore the city center, another for day tripping to Lake Bled, and a third for enjoying a specialized tour, like Taste Ljubljana’s craft beer walk.
Zagreb, Croatia
What to do
Some call Zagreb the next Vienna for its colorful Austro-Hungarian architecture and eclectic vibe. This is an often overlooked destination in Croatia, but well worth a visit for the contrast it provides to the Dalmatian coast.
Top attractions include the Upper Town’s gothic Cathedral and the more popular St. Mark’s Church, with a tiled roof displaying regional coats of arms in an explosion of color. The Museum of Broken Relationships draws many visitors for its quirky niche, while hipsters in the know might seek out the city’s Art Park. In the Lower Town, visitors might focus on the city’s design district or architectural landmarks like the vibrant yellow National Theatre. The city also has its share of atomic bunkers.
Zagreb is just an hour away from Plitvice Lakes National Park, perhaps the most beautiful place in all Croatia. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Plitvice Lakes is filled with turquoise waters, limestone canyons, and towering waterfalls. The unique climate and topography of the area make this one of the most rapidly changing parts of Croatia. Plenty of tour operators all over the country offer guided excursions to the park, but it’s not difficult to visit independently. A trip from the Dalmatian coast will take all day, from sunrise to well after sunset. Zagreb is much more closely situated to the park, so a trip might take only half a day.
How to get here
Zagreb is home to Croatia’s largest airport. Popular flight routes include Vienna, Munich, Paris, and London. You can easily reach the city from anywhere in Europe. There is also a large long-distance bus terminal and a train station, with routes to other parts of Croatia and nearby Balkan cities like Ljubljana.
How much to spend
Hostel dorms in peak season run about 30 euro a night.
Budget meals are unlikely to cost more 5 euro. A meal in a restaurant runs about 10-20 euro.
Admission to the Museum of Broken Relationships is 7 euro. At peak season, the entry fee to Plitvice Lakes National Park is 40 euro.
Budget travel can easily run under 50-60 euro a day.
When to visit
I used a night in Zagreb to break up the long overland journey between Slovenia and the Dalmatian coast. If you do not plan on visiting Slovenia, however, Zagreb makes a good place to start or end your trip.
How long to stay
One day in Zagreb is likely enough to cover its highlights. If you plan on visiting Plitvice Lakes while here, devote a separate day to that. If you don’t have a limited amount of time, give yourself another couple of days to explore the city more thoroughly.
Split, Croatia
What to do
Split’s primary attraction is Diocletian’s Palace, but don’t let the name fool you. This is neither a traditional palace nor a museum. The ancient Roman walled city is still the living and breathing heart of modern day Split. Walking around its stone labyrinth is a special experience indeed.
Many tour operators run excursions from Split. Krka National Park is about an hour’s drive away. There is only a small portion of the park open to swimmers, so the waterfalls are a bit better suited to those content enjoying a short walk snapping photos.
Split is also a handy base for reaching many of Croatia’s islands, like Hvar and Korcula. A single day trip would be quite the squeeze. If you plan on scheduling any island time, set aside at least a few days devoted to it. If you have lots of time, try out this amazing 7-day island hopping itinerary from Ms Blissness.
How to get here
Split, being on the Dalmatian coast, is a popular cruise dock, particularly in July and August. Ferry routes to the islands and other cities in Croatia run daily. Some routes connect Croatia to Italy.
Across from the port is a bus and train terminal with routes to various Balkan cities, including Dubrovnik, Mostar, and Metkovic.
The Split international airport is a major hub for Croatian Airlines, serving London, Paris, Athens, and Frankfurt, among many other European cities.
How much to spend
A bed in a good hostel is likely to run about 50 euro. Hotels are quite steep.
The city center is replete with takeaway pizza stands and bakeries doling out hearty sandwiches and wraps for about 5 euro. Dinners at casual, mid-range restaurants are unlikely to exceed 20 euro.
Diocletian’s Palace has no overall admission fee, but some attractions within like the Saint Domnius bell tower or the Temple of Jupiter have entry fees. A combined ticket is about $8. An excursion to Krka National Park might cost $30.
Budget travel is therefore feasible 60-80 euro per day.
When to visit
Split fits most neatly in the middle of a trip, because Dubrovnik has better international ferry connections. Being to the north of Dubrovnik, Split is also a better overland connection to inland Croatia, Bosnia, and Slovenia.
How long to stay
Two or three days is sufficient in Split – one for Diocletian’s Palace, one for Krka National Park. Allot more time as desired for venturing out to the islands.
Dubrovnik, Croatia
What to do
Dubrovnik, like Split, is a major cruise port on Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. Its greatest attraction is its centuries-old city walls. Visitors can enter the large stone gates to dine and shop in the Old Town, hike the length of the fortifications, or hop in a sea kayak and paddle around the walls.
Sea kayaking routes circle Lokrum Island, which is where Dubrovnik locals go to escape the bustle of the city. The uninhabited island is filled with attractions of its own, like a Benedictine monastery, a botanic garden, and a naturist beach.
While the islands closer to Split, like Hvar and Korcula, get more tourist attention, from Dubrovnik, you can cruise the Elaphiti Islands. The archipelago of Kolocep, Lopud, and Sipan can be explored within a day. If you’d like to go really out of your way and avoid the crowds entirely, check out Vis Island. You can learn more about visiting this and other hidden gems of Eastern Europe at Girl with the Passport.
How to get here
Dubrovnik is Croatia’s best known city and biggest cruise port. Ferry lines serve most other Croatian ports, like Split and Hvar, as well as Bari in Italy.
Near the port, a bus terminal connects Dubrovnik to the rest of the Balkans, especially bordering countries Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro.
The Dubrovnik international airport is less busy than either Zagreb or Split, but serves most major European cities.
How much to spend
At peak season, even a hostel dorm can be as much as 100 euro a night! You may be able to find a 50 euro bed, but 80 euro is a safer bet.
Budget meals in the 5 to 10 euro range can be hard to find and sit down restaurants in Old Town can be especially pricey. Expect to spend 30 to 40 euro per day at a minimum.
Admission to the Dubrovnik City Walls is 40 euro. A half day kayaking trip around Lokrum Island starts around 35 euro. A round trip ferry to Lokrum is 27 euro.
Budget travel in Dubrovnik during peak season might hardly feel like budget travel. You can easily average 150 euro a day.
When to visit
If you are traveling from Italy, this is the best place to begin your trip. Otherwise, make this a stop during the middle of the journey as Dubrovnik’s airport is not as sizable as others in Croatia.
How long to stay
Give yourself at least two or three days to see Dubrovnik. One day for the Old Town, one day for Lokrum Island, and if you like, a day for cruising the islands.
Kotor, Montenegro
What to do
The Stari Grad is in some ways similar to Diocletian’s Palace in Split – a walled Old Town that remains the modern city’s center. Distinctive to the character of Kotor are the dozens of cats wandering its stone streets. Attractions in town include St. Tryphon’s Cathedral and a Maritime Museum.
At the Old Town’s doorstep is the striking Bay of Kotor. You can get on the water in a kayak or on a boat tour to the artificial island Our Lady of the Rocks or the impressive Blue Cave. Another vantage point for the area’s natural beauty is the hike up to St. John’s Fortress or the more challenging climb up the Ladder of Kotor.
If you’re keen to explore other parts of the country, Old Town Hostel operates several day tours. The Great Montenegro Tour takes the Austro-Hungarian Old Road to the top of Lovcen Mountain for breathtaking views over the bay. Other highlights include trying local cheese and prosciutto at Njegusi, viewing relics at Cetinje Monastery, boating over Skadar Lake, and walking through the Old Town of Budva.
How to get here
There is no airport or train station in Kotor. You will have to rely on bus. The terminal here has routes to other Montenegrin cities and much of the Balkans, though these routes will invariably pass through Dubrovnik.
How much to spend
Dorms at Old Town Hostel are just under 60 euro a night and you’ll be hard pressed to find places much cheaper during peak season. But hey, how often can you say you spent the night in a 13th century palazzo?
Pizza by the slice and savory pastries cost just a few euro. A sit-down meal averages 10 to 15 euro. More upscale dinners will be at least 30 euro.
Entry fees to the Old Town’s museums and churches range from 2 to 4 euro. Day tours to nearby attractions or other cities mostly run 30 to 40 euro.
Budget travel here has spiked in cost thanks to steep hostel prices. You’ll likely be spending at least 80 euro a day.
When to visit
Kotor is a bit more difficult to reach than other destinations, with bus travel from another Balkan city being the only reliable means of public transportation. It’s best to make this a stop in the middle of your tour.
How long to stay
One day in Kotor might satisfy most travelers, but on a sabbatical I recommend taking at least a few days to soak up its historic vibes and stunning scenery.
Mostar
What to do
Mostar’s claim to fame is its striking Old Bridge. Even though the original medieval bridge was destroyed during the war in the 1990s, the reconstructed version is no less beloved. Every day around noon, visitors gather to watch members of the Divers Club brave the 20 meter drop from the iconic Ottoman-style arch into the Neretva River below.
The cobblestone streets surrounding the Old Bridge are packed with souvenir shops. Mosaic lanterns, hand tooled copper and silver jewelry, and brightly painted ceramics are all on display. You can even watch some of these traditional handicrafts being made.
Beyond the Old Town, Mostar is a city still rebuilding, so tourist attractions are few. A walk around town might reveal abandoned ruins, street art, and graves that seem to stretch on forever. It’s a bittersweet look at how Bosnia and Herzegovina fares today.
How to get here
Your best bet for getting around this part of the Balkans is by bus. The main bus station sits just minutes away from the heart of Old Town. There are routes to Dubrovnik, Sarajevo, and plenty of other Balkan cities.
How much to spend
Many of the lodgings advertised as hostels in Bosnia are more like homestays. There is nothing to rival Bosnian hospitality, so budget backpackers are sure to get a unique experience for less than $25 a night.
Your cheapest meal options are unlikely to be more than a few marks apiece. Budget travelers could get by on $10 per day for food. A cafe or inexpensive restaurant will likely charge about $10 per meal. A more luxurious budget might include a $30 meal.
There’s no charge to wander around the Old Town or cross the Old Bridge, but it’s a nice gesture to make a donation of a couple euros if you’d like to watch the Divers Club. There is also a Museum of the Old Bridge. In 2016, its entry fee was 5 marks; the museum’s website doesn’t say what the current price is.
Budget travelers likely won’t need much more than $40 per day. A budget of $100 per day would get you a private room and more meals out.
In my experience, businesses in Mostar are very welcoming to tourists and even though euros are not official currency, many folks accept them. This is not always the case in other parts of Bosnia (nor should it be expected).
When to visit
Bosnia is not the easiest part of the Balkans to reach. Best to keep Mostar in the middle of your sabbatical itinerary.
How long to stay
There’s no need to stay in Mostar for more than a day or two. The Old Town is small and there aren’t many tourist attractions.
Sarajevo
What to do
The capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina was the site of a devastating three-year siege in the 1990s, and after years of recovery is on a major upswing. Sarajevo has been named a European Capital of Culture and gets increasing attention from guidebooks.
Founded by the Ottomans, Sarajevo’s Old Town or Bascarsija is still filled with cobblestone alleys, shisha bars, and muezzin calls. (It’s honestly such a vibe!) Neighborhood landmarks include an often-replicated Sebilj fountain and the immense Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque.
The city’s more recent history is commemorated in the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Tunnel Museum. The latter is what remains of the city’s single lifeline for food and arms built during the 1990s siege, a haunting hollowed-out stretch that just barely enable Sarajevo’s survival.
How to get here
There is an international airport in Sarajevo with most traffic coming to and from Istanbul. (There is a large Turkish community in Bosnia, which is the only Balkan country to have remained Muslim after the end of the Ottoman Empire.) Most other air routes go to other Balkan cities like Zagreb, Ljubljana, and Belgrade.
There is a train station in the city, but train routes in Bosnia and Herzegovina remain quite limited. (During my visit in 2016, no domestic train routes operated at all.) Fortunately, buses in the Balkans are pretty comfortable.
How much to spend
Hostel dorms in Sarajevo run $15-20 per night. A private room might land between $30 and $50 for the night.
Thanks to the large Turkish community in town, doner kebab are easy to come by for just a few marks apiece. Pizza by the slice and bakery burek are other cheap meal options. Budget travelers can probably eat on $25 a day, where a mid-range budget is closer to $60 per day.
Admission to the Gazi Mosque is just 3 marks, roughly 1.50 euro. Sarajevo’s History Museum charges 5 marks for admission, which is about 2.50 euro. The entry fee to the Tunnel Museum is 20 marks or a little over 10 euro.
Budget travel in Sarajevo easily comes under $50 per day. Mid-range travel is over $100 per day.
Unlike Mostar, businesses in Sarajevo do not accept euros and many, including hostels, are cash only. Make sure you have konvertible marks for your visit.
When to visit
The more limited transportation options in Bosnia make Sarajevo a city best kept in the middle of an itinerary. Starting or ending here would be more difficult.
How long to stay
Give yourself at least two to three days in Sarajevo. Exploring the Old City and the museums in the area will absolutely pack your itinerary. If you like to travel at a slower pace, give yourself four or even five days here to fully soak up the atmosphere and learn all about the city’s history.
Belgrade
What to do
Celts, Romans, Ottomans, Habsburgs, Yugoslavians… Don’t let the drab communist bloc architecture and general grit fool you. Belgrade is a vibrant, spirited city that never dies.
The historic city center’s top attraction is Kalemegdan Fortress, a fortification with roots in multiple periods of the city’s past. It has a long history as a much-envied stronghold at the meeting of the Danube and Sava Rivers. Today, the fortress commands excellent views over the confluence of these two rivers and is surrounded by a very popular park.
Other attractions in Belgrade include Sveti Sava–the largest Orthodox church in Europe–and the Tesla Museum, celebrating the life and accomplishments of engineer Nikola Tesla, despite the fact that Tesla himself spent no more than a few days in Belgrade. A short educational film precedes a demonstration of various Tesla coils.
A bit farther off, you’ll find the Museum of Yugoslav History and Tito’s Mausoleum, final resting place of the famed “benevolent” Yugoslav dictator.
Belgrade has long been attractive to artists and poets. The surprisingly charming Skadarlija neighborhood is still jam packed with historic restaurants serving traditional Serbian foods and modern bars of all kinds from English pubs to Spanish tapas bars. Later in the evening, you might move the party to one of the riverboat clubs lining the Danube.
How to get here
The Nikola Tesla airport is the hub for Air Serbia. Its busiest routes include Moscow, Athens, Istanbul, Vienna, and various cities in Montenegro. The airport is growing and becoming a strong hub for the Balkan region.
Trains leave from a station just ten minutes from the central Slavija Square and serve a number of regional destinations, including Budapest, Ljubljana, Podgorica, Skopje, Sofia, Thessaloniki, Timisoara, Vienna, and Zagreb.
The city’s main bus terminal is a bit farther afield – more like a thirty minute walk from the city center – and close to a refugee camp. Eurolines Lasta connects Belgrade to most cities in the Balkan region, including those in Bosnia.
How much to spend
Most hostel dorms span $20-30, though you may find some available for less. Private rooms could be anywhere from $40 a night to nearly $100.
Like the rest of the region, takeaway sandwiches, burek, and pizza by the slice are readily available for $5 or less. Skadarlija’s historic eateries, with large servings of traditional food and formally attired servers, still offer some entrees for just $15.
Free walking tours of the city leave from the central Republic Square every morning. Museum admissions are typically around $5-8. Neither Kalemegdan Fortress nor Saint Sava church charge entry fees.
Budget travelers in Belgrade need only $30-40 a day. Mid-range travel could run roughly $100 per day.
When to visit
As Belgrade recovers from the wars in the 1990s and grows, it becomes easier to access. The Serbian capital can make a reasonable place to start or end your trip.
How long to stay
Three days is enough to cover the highlights of the city, but you could easily entertain yourself for a week in Belgrade.
This is only a small selection of destinations in the Balkans. I’ll keep adding more as my own experience grows!
